My husband is an American but my family lives in South Africa. I am in love with the landscape of my home country and can’t resist playing tour guide when we visit them—it allows him to experience this gorgeous place, guided by a local, and I get to experience and revisit places from my childhood through to adulthood with fresh eyes.
Each time he visits, I plan a new, vibrant itinerary so that we are continually experiencing different parts of the country (and popping over to Cape Town because it is his absolute favorite—he did propose on Lion’s Head, after all).
With a week at our disposal, I give you the Cape to Durban week-long itinerary via The Garden Route in South Africa.
We focused on five areas, namely: Cape Town, Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, Storm's River Mouth and booked flights from Port Elizabeth (P.E.) to Durban (further east) because the drive through the Transkei can be very taxing and we didn't have the time to waste. I have driven all the way through on previous occasions though (and it is beautiful).
This was our itinerary from a previous trip—it was a little longer than a week. You can condense it into a week by flying to Durban and then home on day 7.
Day 1
Arrival in Cape Town
Accommodation: Kloof Street Area
Activities:
Hike Lion’s Head
Brunch at Truth Coffee downtown
Baked treats from Charly’s Bakery
Shop at V and A Waterfront
City views from Signal Hill
Sundowners and dinner in Camp’s Bay
*would recommend checking out Table Mountain if you haven’t. Read more about our experience here.
Hiking Lion's Head
We started with an early hike up Lion’s Head—Chris proposed here a year ago and we couldn’t resist revisiting. The panoramic view of the city, beaches, and Table Mountain is breath-taking.
The locals will tell you that this is a ‘chilled walk’. I love hiking and this 45min one-way climb is worth the trek regardless of fitness—it won’t take all morning, the views are incredible, and it’s a good wake-up call, leaving you with a feeling of breathlessness (jokes, achievement, I meant achievement).
I will warn, however, it’s not a 'slops and skinnies' (flip flips and skinny jeans) affair. I see some people up there wide-eyed, unsure how they are going to manage on the rocks with no grip for their feet.
Dress appropriately
There are rocks to scramble over, dirt paths, two short ladders to climb, and some chains to pull on. Wear running or hiking shoes, a cap, put on sunscreen, and take a bottle of water. We accompanied it with champagne. ;)
Side note: You can also paraglide off Lion's Head, too.
Brunch
A quick shower and clothing change later, we headed to our favorite brunch and coffee spot- Truth Coffee HQ in town. Parking is tricky but it's worth the struggle/wait. Truth's trendy, industrial decor; supreme food quality; epic roasts; and social atmosphere is pure class.
You might see some customers carrying pink and white striped boxes. That, friends, is a reminder that Charly’s Bakery is nearby. Post-brunch, a few minute's walk gets you to over-the-top cakes, cupcakes, and iced biscuits in all their glory at Charly's.
If you’re into bagels and cheesecake, New York bagel is in the area and I’ve been told it is quite the taste sensation.
Make your way to the waterfront
My husband and I are foodies, so we bee-lined for the V and A Waterfront.
The waterfront is lovely place to buy gifts and South African curios of all kinds, clothing and decor, jewelry, and food. There is a large indoor mall and more restaurants and cafes than I would ever wish to see in one place.
The waterfront is gorgeous and you will see ships passing into the harbour, seals in the water on a good day and walk across the harbor's swing bridge.
Tour the area and when you are feeling peckish, resist the fancy restaurants and try the Indoor Market. The sushi is sublime but there is Greek, Italian, African, Indian, Thai, and other International cuisine on offer as well as treats, a waffle and pancake bar, The Creamery ice-cream, health yoghurts, and juices and and and.
City views from Signal Hill
While you are lapsing in and out of a food coma, take a drive up Signal Hill for more sun-lit city views and some downtime.
Drive to Camp's Bay
We then headed out to Camp’s Bay to walk on the beach (pack a jacket or sweater to combat the wind) and had sundowners and dinner along the beach strip (seafood order preference). The restaurants have a delicious sea view, pink-streaked sky backdrop, and fine menus.
*The Hussar Grill (slightly up the hill) is highly recommended for steak.
Day 2
Vineyard Tour through Stellenbosch
Accommodation: Stellenbosch area
Activities:
Breakfast on Kloof Street in Cape Town
Wine tasting in Stellenbosch: Beyerskloof and the House of J.C. Le Roux
Dinner in Stellenbosch
*for more wine tasting recommendations, check out this post. Jonkershoek Nature Reserve is also worth checking out.
There are hundreds of wine farms to choose from in the Winelands (40 minutes inland of Cape Town).
Get going after a breakfast in the Cape (Melissa’s on Kloof Street was our choice with friends)—it’s never too early for wine in the Cape.
Tastings generally end from 4:40-5 p.m. (make sure you are not the designated driver). The tastings can be as cheap as R20 for up to five tastings. If you buy a bottle of wine, the tasting is usually free and the bottles can range from around R60 to R150. Worth it? Absolutely!
Where to go
We visited Beyerskloof for their South African-exclusive Pinotage selection and new bottle, Traildust.
Pop the bubbly
After Beyerskloof, we went to the House of J.C. Le Roux for their bubbly and nougat tasting (my husband had the olive pairing). This was slightly more pricey but well worth it—a fantastic experience and both places had the option to ship bottles home.
We stayed on the edge of Jonkershoek, the nature reserve on the outskirts of Stellenbosch, in a beautiful room on a vineyard and dined in the Stellenbosch Village that night.
More to do
On a previous trip we did a bike and wine tour of the vineyards (definitely recommended) and visited the Cat Park at Spier to see the wild cats (tiger, leopard).
There is an airstrip where you can watch planes land, a nature reserve for walks and hikes, beautiful vineyards and spots to party at night in the village.
Pro-tip: If possible, phone to reserve a dinner location at any of the places in town as the restaurants fill up quickly.
Day 3
Knysna roadtrip
Accommodation: Knysna area
Activities:
Breakfast in Stellenbosch
Drive to Knysna
Check out the Knysna Heads, beaches, and surrounds
Dinner on Thesen Island
*would recommend a horse-riding adventure while you’re here. There are also hiking trails to explore.
Prepare for a five-and-a-half hour drive along the N2 from Stellenbosch to Knysna with padkos (snacks for the road) and a music playlist.
There are spots along the way to stop for breakfast in Stellenbosch or Somerset West (half an hour away) and beautiful scenery to enjoy.
But first, present opening in Jonkershoek where we spent the night. It was my birthday.
Knysna
We arrived in Knysna, checked in and drove to the Knysna Heads. There are hiking trails, quiet park benches, beaches, and stunning scenery.
Being a special occasion, we were in a celebratory mood—we bought some champagne and headed to the beach to pop some bubbly and curl our toes in the sand as the sun was setting.
Dinner recommendation
Our dinner spot of choice (fantastic food, terrible service) was Sirocco on Thesen Island.
We hired a taxi to get there and the restaurant provided a return shuttle free of charge. The food options on the menu were plentiful and exquisite—we ordered a sushi platter of fried tempura and prawn-stacked California rolls as a starter, the line fish with seasonal vegetables and mango puree as a main, and the coconut panna cotta with berry compote and meringue as dessert (along with our half empty bottle of beach champagne).
Other activity options in Knysna
If you're in the area, try hiking the 15km Blombos Trail or opt for shorter beach trails and visits to Bollard, Brenton or Buffalo Beach.
Day 4
Plettenberg Bay
Accommodation: Plettenberg Bay area (I recommend Sea Breeze)
Activities:
Head to Plettenberg Bay
Lunch at The Lookout
Walk with and feed the elephants at Knysna Elephant Park
Dinner at The Fat Fish
Off to Plett we go. A short drive away, we arrived at The Lookout for Lunch.
Lunch recommendation
The food and drinks were spot on and the service, excellent. I had Inverroche Classic Gin and Tonic and Chris had a craft beer. The spicy calamari salad and battered fish and chips were first-class.
The beach view was picturesque and enticed us to explore.
Meet the elephants
Later that afternoon, we booked a 'walk and feed' with the elephants at the Knysna Elephant Park (15 minutes away). There is also an elephant sanctuary in the area—noted for next time.
The most special experience
Chris and I love elephants. We have had a few encounters with them and these creatures have touched out hearts.
Feeding them and watching their long trucks reach and suck up large pieces of fruit and vegetables to place in their mouths was a unique experience. We found ourselves wondering how the fruit disappeared so fast—they seem to inhale rather than chew. ;)
The guides were very informative as we walked with the elephants one by one (we weren't able to hold their trucks, but I was so ready to) and showed knowledge and love for the animals.
Dinner recommendation
Our dinner of choice was at The Fat Fish. Utter food heaven. Classy presentation, stylish decor, food flavor taste explosions, mmm.
We ordered the chicken dumpling starters which had marinated in Thai Tom Yum soup, the wild mushroom linguine main and the seafood curry (mussels, oysters, calamari and fish) accompanied by chilled white wine.
Repeat experience for sure.
Day 5
Storm’s River Mouth
Accommodation: Storm's River area
Activities:
Breakfast at accommodation and walk to the beach
Beach time-swimming, exploring surrounds
Ride MTB trails in Harkerville
Dinner at the Village Inn in Storm's River village
After a satisfying breakfast at the luxurious Sea Breeze accommodation, we walked to the beach in Plett. Beach access was a mere 50m away.
Morning beach walks
We frolicked and dug up periwinkles (sea-sand snails burying themselves as the waves crashed over them) and left our things on the beach. If you do plan on going for a walk, move your stuff further up as tides change quickly and ours was washed over (chuckle).
Off-the-beaten track mountain biking
We then drove to Harkerville to embark on a MTB route through the forest.
We chose the 20km green route (with an initial detour because we failed to check the map) through beautiful forest with single tracks and a view worth the climb.
We used Outeniqua rentals who provided us with excellent bikes, helmets, and a route map. It was quite the challenge and a well-received adventure!
Storm's River
We drove to our last destination on the garden route for the week—Storm’s River and had a South African dinner at the Village Inn. The ostrich fillet was out of this world. Chris had the Cape Malay Lamb Curry.
Tsitsikamma Backpackers was a good location in the village (we had a private room) and the staff are kind and helpful but not the location you would pick if you need peace and quiet to sleep.
Day 6
Storm’s River Mouth
Accommodation: Storm's River area
Activities:
Sea kayak at Storm’s River Mouth
Hike the trails in Tsitsikamma National Forest
Cross the Storm’s River Suspension Bridge
Visit The Big Tree
*would recommend Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours.
We took the day to kayak, lilo, hike, and explore the area.
Untouched Adventures, based at Storm’s River Mouth was an excellent activity choice. We went sea kayaking (weather conditions cut this very short) with an entertaining guide–he even went cliff-jumping with us, post-kayaking, to ‘test the waters’. We had lilo-rafts and played water games in the river.
If you fear the cold, don't stress, wetsuits and 'boot's are provided at an additional cost. I am fearful of the cold and although the windy morning scared me (the sea was choppy), we ended up having a blast all morning.
After the water activity, we dried off and found a trail to hike with views of the coast—highly recommended.
Along the hike, we were required to cross the Storm’s River Suspension Bridge, a 77m bridge that sways and bounces as you walk. If you’re trying not to look down, where two turbulent bodies of water meet 7m below you, the ocean spray might catch you by surprise when the waves crash. It isn’t for the feint hearted, but if you brave the crossing, the coastal views on the other side are remarkable.
While we were in the area, we did more exploring. After the hike, we drove to Tsitsikamma Forest to view The Big Tree, a giant Outeniqua Yellowwood. It was impressive and the surrounds, beautiful.
Day 7
Port Elizabeth and a Durban-bound flight
Accommodation: Durban area
Activities:
Horse riding (would suggest this as an activity for Knysna)
Wine tasting and lunch at Bramon Boutique
Drive to Port Elizabeth
Catch flight from P.E. to Durban
Horseback riding
Our last day before flying back to Durban started with a two-hour forest trail on horseback.
Hog Hollow Horse Trails is described as an activity for those in the Tsitsikamma area (which we were) but don’t be fooled about location. It is an hour back from whence you came and an additional R90 in toll fees. I would suggest this horse-riding experience when you are in Knysna or Plett as those locations are closer.
Also, ask the guides for a gentle or 'beginner' horse. I rode Miss Nosey and she was very disagreeable. I laugh now but I wasn't then. I've ridden a fair amount but the guide said that she was "naughty today" as she refused many sections of the trail and had to be hand led. Chris’ horse Charlie was fine though and he throughly enjoyed the ride. Again, gentle horse.
I love horses but, like people, animals have good and bad days where mood affects behavior. I always try to be relaxed but when a horse is twitchy and uncomfortable being ridden, I think I'd rather pass. I'll admit, the guide was informative and friendly and the ‘adventure route’ was enjoyable with steep slopes through forest, views of Impala buck, and changing terrain on private farms.
Stop at a boutique vineyard
A few minutes up the road is the Bramon Boutique wine farm, which we couldn’t resist stopping at for a tasting and lunch. R10 a glass to taste, specializing in Sauvignon Blanc and Bubbly, the farm is thriving.
Bramon also has a popular restaurant with tapas-style lunch in their vineyard. A checklist menu offers stunning options, which include a highly recommended hot white loaf with cracked salt and cubes of butter, Greek dolmadas, Mediterranean salads, Springbok carpaccio, baked melted cheeses such as brie with fig, marinated olives and fudge. That bread though, yes please!
We were pleasantly surprised at the quality of our experience and will recommend this restaurant to all.
Last leg to P.E.
The final portion of our drive to P.E. was a mere two hours. When we arrived, we spent time along the broad walk before heading to the airport to check-in our oversized luggage (phew).
We landed in Durban and checked in to our accommodation, ready for a good sleep.
Ending or extending your trip
If you wish to fly home, now's your chance. If you want to tack on a few more unforgettable days in the country, visit Durban and nearby Natal Midlands.
Day 8
Durban
Accommodation: Durban area
Activities:
Breakfast and swim in the ocean
Lunch at Afro’s Chicken Shack
Skateboard at the Moses Mabhida Stadium
*After breakfast, I’d suggest you spend some time at uShaka Marine World—the beach activities, rentals, and aquarium will keep you entertained all day if need be. The arch walk across the stadium is also worthy.
Hello warm weather and swimmable ocean!
Chris and I began the day the best way I know how—with a delicious home-cooked breakfast and swim in the Indian Ocean.
Lunch recommendation
We had to go to Afro’s Chicken in Glenwood for lunch because Afro’s is his all time favourite.
A trot up the road to our dessert location in an attempt to aid digestion and make room for Pop Up Society’s Amarula Milkshake topped with whipped cream and a slice of milk tart (South African creamy cinnamon fridge tart). Completely unnecessary and extravagant but we do it, we did it and will definitely be back.
More to do
While Chris and I spent our time in Durban catching up with family, going on coffee and drink dates with friends, surfing, and riding skateboards around the Moses Mabhida Stadium, there's a lot more on offer.
Recommendations for activities to do around Durban can be found here.
Day 9
Natal Midlands
Accommodation: Midlands area (you'll want to stay longer, promise)
Activities:
Drive to the Natal Midlands
Go on a Midland Meander (shop, eat, explore, repeat)
A trip to the Natal Midlands is a worthwhile 1.5 hour drive out of Durban city. It's the 'wedding capital' of South Africa for good reason.
Activities
While you're there, go on a Midlands Meander—it's a full day of entertainment, from chocolate tasting to curio shopping. Find out more here. You can spend half a day or a week here and find plenty to do.
Lunch recommendation
My mom lives in the Midlands and we went to visit for lunch at Tumbledowns in Howick as a her treat. It has a gorgeous menu and dessert, stunning location, and good service.
The beef fillet stack or chicken comes highly recommended and we ordered granadilla-topped vanilla panna cotta (yes there is a trend here) and the nougat ice-cream. Food comas all week!
Here's what not to miss on the Midlands Meander in this post (on day 9).
Farewell
While we didn't spend a full weekend here (this time), you should take advantage of the crisp air and escape from the city. We didn't stay long because we had to head back to Durban to pick up our luggage (stored with my dad) and catch flights back to the States. It takes at least 40 minutes to get to the airport from Durban central excluding traffic. We made it by the skin of our teeth—as always.
For travelers without family in the city to chauffeur you around, affordable airport transfers can be made using the Airport Shuttle for around R80 one way. I’ve used their services and will again—so cheap and efficient.
That concludes our Garden Route adventure and Chris’ third visit to South Africa—what a treat! If you'd like more itinerary inspiration, check out this 10-day Cape to Free State post, which includes recommendations to shorten or lengthen your trip.
Much love,