Korea’s largest island, Jeju-do, is known for its female divers (haenyeo), availability of citrus, and volcanic landscape. When I’ve asked locals what they recommend to see and do in South Korea, visiting Jeju Island always comes up first—it’s gorgeous and makes for an action-packed long weekend or a week-long getaway.
Popular activities on the island include hiking Mt Halla, Korea’s highest mountain, biking the perimeter, Jeju’s Fantasy Bike Tail, scuba diving, café hopping, and waterfall chasing.
What this post covers
In this post, you’ll find out how to get to Jeju island, what to do once you arrive, where to eat, and where to stay. I’ve included itinerary options for a long weekend with alternatives depending on your preferences.
Please comment and let me know your thoughts and if there’s anything else you’d like to know! Here goes.
How to get there
There are two options to get to Jeju: travel by ferry or plane. In this post, I’ll highlight the plane option. If you’re looking for ferry information, click to view this post.
There are many airports in South Korea with flights to Jeju. Popular options include Gimpo (from Seoul), Cheongju (if traveling from Osan Air Base or Camp Humphreys), Gunsan Airport (if traveling from Kunsan AB), or Gimhae (from Busan). I’ve flown from both Gunsan and Gimhae.
Airports with flights to Jeju
Gimpo International (GMP), western Seoul
Cheongju International (CJJ), inland, south of Cheonan and north of Daejeon
Gunsan Airport (KUV)
Daegu International (TAE)
Sacheon Airport (HIN), in Southern Korea, between islands Namhae and Geoje
Gimhae International (PUS), Busan
Destination: Jeju International (CJU) in Jeju City, the northern part of the island.
Military
Whether or not you have a car, Cheongju, Gimpo, and Gunsan are all easy options. I recently flew out of Gunsan—unless you’re stationed at Kunsan, you can take the base bus to Kunsan AB (the airport is adjacent to the ROKAF gate) or you can drive (2.5h) and park on base for free and take a 10-min taxi to the airport. Too easy.
Pro-tip
Book your flight as soon as possible—the tickets seem to vanish before your eyes. We booked directly from the Jeju Air site. Jin Air is another option. When flying, you need your passport and ARC or you can use your military CAC. Mil spouse IDs don’t work.
Getting around the island
I recommend renting a car unless you’re cycling the whole thing. Buses are infrequent and taxis are good for short distances but hard to get in some locations.
Weekend vs week-long trip
If I could spend a week on Jeju each time I visit, I would. We don’t all have that luxury, however, so I have provided my recommendations for a long weekend on Jeju island as well as ideas that cover the whole island. If you’re interested in ideas for a full week, including travel, the post is in the works.
Recommended stops for a weekend
Seogwipo in the south—diving, waterfalls, and cafes
Seongsan Ilchulbong hike and Udo island visit in the east
Beaches in the north and final night in Jeju City (can hike Hallasan from here)
Long weekend itinerary options
Day 1 Early flight to Jeju city, head west, beach time, local sights, stay in SW or Seogwipo City
Day 2 Here are 3 options: Either dive OR head from SW to east exploring sights along the way (museums, waterfalls, and cafes); hike a UNESCO site for sunset; stay in E if exploring the east coast and northern beaches on the rest of the trip OR head to Jeju city for the night if hiking Hallasan
Day 3 Here are 3 options: Either dive OR go to Udo Island, hit up NE beaches, and head to Jeju City for the night OR hike Hallasan
Day 4 Early flight out of Jeju
*Locations included throughout are from the app Naver—download in advance. The spellings are the English translations for the app and don’t often match the actual stop names so I’ve included both as well as the Korean addresses for taxi drivers.
Day 1
Flight | Coffee | Beach | Late Lunch | Hotel Check In | Sights
Once you land on Jeju Island, rent a car at the airport and head west towards Hyeopjae Beach. Stop at Yongduam Rock, park, and walk to Antoinette for coffee, pastries, and views:
Angttuaneteu Yongdam Branch - Antoinette
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If you want glimpses of uncrowded Korean streets and a pagoda, walk 500m to Yongyeon Valley. Eyes peeled for the pagoda.
Yongyeon Valley
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Other cafe options I didn’t make it to but would next time:
Aewol Cafe Noeulli
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Byobyo – further from the airport, closer to the beach
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Continue west along the coast—worth it.
Get in some beach time at Hyeopjae Beach or explore Hallim Park—there’s an arboretum, caves, a folk village, and green space to check out.
Choose your destiny:
If you’re heading to the tea fields, aim for Jeju O-Sulloc Tea Museum inland and enjoy a picnic from the Innes Free Café on site. Make sure they give you the blanket-basket setup. Get that tea-field photo, try some matcha ice cream, or purchase beautiful tea and/or beauty products—great for gifts.
OSULLOC Tea Museum
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Nearby, take a taxi, to the Jeju Air Space Museum if you’re interested.
Jeju Air Space Museum
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Alternatively, aim for Songaksan Mountain with its sharp cliffs and coastal views and enjoy brunch/lunch at Tropical Hide Away Café—my favorite on the island; a stocked bakery, good juices, delectable French Toast and Shakshuka, tasteful decor, and ocean views.
Songaksan Mountain – the flowers in spring are pure sunshine
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Tropical Hide Away Cafe
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Natural sights near Seogwipo
Onwards to Seogwipo City. If you choose to spend the night in the south, there are a few worthy sights to check out. Cheonjeyeon waterfall, Jungmun Saekdal bathing resort, and Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff are breathtaking spots along the coast.
Cheonjiyeon Waterfall
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Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff
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Pro-tip
If you’re seeing waterfalls, pick the ones that look coolest to you—there are so many. Bring water. Check the hours.
Museum options
If you’re exhausted and would rather museum hop than stair climb to waterfalls, there are a variety of quirky museums to choose from.
Naver names to search before the word ‘museum’: Tea, Jeju Air Space, Jeju Glass, Museum of Sex & Health, Chocolate, Museum of African Art, Joanne Bear, Cactus, Seogwipo Citrus, World Alcohol, Jeju Dinosaur Animal, Jeju Coffee—what don’t they have?!
These can also be explored on day 2.
Accommodation suggestion
There are more options than you know what to do with. Friends of ours stayed at The Grand Sumorum and loved it.
Other hotel options include:
- The Suites Hotel Jeju $$
- Marriott Jeju Shinhwa World Hotel $$
- The Shilla Jeju $$$
- Lotte Hotel Jeju $$$
DAY 2
Sights or Dive | Coffee | Beach/Sports | Late Lunch | Check In | Hike/Market
Good morning! For your second day on the island, we have a ‘choose your own adventure’ type plan:
Option:
A. Dive off the Southern Coast—1 or 2-day diving packages
B. Waterfalls, coffee, beach, eats, a short hike up a UNESCO Heritage Site, stay east
C. Waterfalls, coffee, beach, eats, head back and check in at Jeju city to hike Hallasan tomorrow, a popular night market in the city for dinner
Option A
If you’re looking to dive, the company Big Blue 33 has an English site with info to check out for new and advanced divers. If you’re a newbie, there is a single-day option. If you’re looking for a more advanced dive, the shortest option is 2 days. Check out the info (duration, pricing, contact) here.
Alternative dive companies are listed here with English instructors mentioned where available.
If you choose a day-long dive, follow along with Option B for DAY 3’s activities.
Option B
If you’ve lived in Korea, you’ll know that coffee shops aren’t open early. Let’s get to sightseeing and check out some café options on our way out.
Natural sights in Seogwipo
Closer to the city, you’ll find Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (pokpo is the word for waterfall in Korean), Jeongbang Waterfall (it closes at 9 p.m. and is beautiful at night), and Sojeongbang Waterfall. They all open at 9 a.m. and are a satisfying way to start the day. Spray yourself with insect repellent, get in early, wear those comfy shoes, and bring water.
Coffee
After all the stairs and views, it’s coffee time. Terrarosa is a popular coffee chain in Korea just outside of the city moving east. But there are thousands (well, tens of) local options too.
Alternative cafe options:
Ajureu Blue
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Geuriul Ttaen Jeju - the carrot cake was incredible
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Cafe Gadeunia – further east, closer to the beach
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We’re heading east to Pyoseon Beach. It’s a huge beach and the perfect stopover for seafood. There’s also a burger spot there called Wave if you want something simpler.
Pyoseon Bathing Resort
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If you choose not to do Hallasan, spend the night in the east and do a hike up Seongsan Ilchulbong. Aptly named Seongsan Ilchulbong or Sunrise Peak, the tuff cone crater requires a hike up in the dark and a group huddle to see the new day awaken in all her splendor. If you luck out on a clear morning, it’s worth a visit for sunset. The crater is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers gorgeous coastal views of the surroundings.
Below the crater, the area is walkable. There’s an ice cream shop near the base and plenty of places to get food/beverages. We had a good experience at the Aussie fish and chips shop and found lots of treats in the area.
Willara – Aussie fish and chips
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Down the street from the restaurant is a tasty egg tart cafe I couldn’t find on Naver. It’s a minute away though and well marketed. Here’s the Kakao pin: 성산해나 http://kko.to/nJvMfxWNj
Accommodation recommendation
We stayed at Co-op City Hotel Seongsan when we visited. It was affordable, the location was stellar, and the rooms were clean—just what we wanted.
CO-OP City Hotel Seongsan
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Option C
All morning-afternoon activities are the same as Option B, but if you’re going to wake up early and hike Mt Halla or Jeju’s Hallasan, head back to Jeju City and check in to your hotel for two nights instead of hiking the crater and staying in the east.
After check-in in Jeju City, you can walk to Dongmun night market – vibe, souvenirs, and dinner. It closes at 9 p.m. Try to get there early in the evening; lines snake around the building closer to closing. We picked up some food for the hike tomorrow as well as snacks to enjoy on the way up. We were thoroughly entertained (and fed) and deem this a repeat-visit spot.
Dongmun Traditional Market
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Accommodation recommendation
Stay at the Ramada Plaza Jeju—of the two locations, it’s the hotel on the water. We soaked in the pool after hiking Hallasan on the second day of our stay here—bliss.
Ramada Plaza Jeju
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Day 3
Ferry to Udo | Coffee | Explore Island | Lunch | N Beaches | Check in | Dinner
OR
Hike Hallasan | Dinner in Jeju City
Option B-ers
If you choose to dive or stay in the east (Option A and B), you’re in a prime spot for some extra island exploration and beach time.
Sunrise hike up Seongsan Ilchulbong anyone? If you don't hike it for sunset, I recommend you do it early to beat the heat.
UDO ISLAND
Check out of your hotel and go to Udo. This tiny island east of Jeju is a fun half-day activity. And why wouldn’t you visit another island while visiting an island? It’s all ridiculous and over-the-top and I love it.
If you don’t have a nut allergy, try the famous peanut ice cream or peanut lattes on Udo. The island is known for the nut and it is celebrated everywhere. They also have peanut makgeolli (rice wine) but, honestly, Jeju’s unique citrus makgeolli was superior.
The ferry terminal is easy to get to and tickets are cheap. You can hire bikes and scooters on the island or take your own over with you. We rented a hilarious, quirky, pink cat car to zoom around in for a few hours and this was the best decision of the day.
Seongsanpo Port Terminal for ferry to Udo. Can buy tickets on arrival.
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Blanc Roswe
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^^ For coffee and a scone with a view, sit outside here. Also, a peanut ice cream win if you want to try it.
Hagosudong Bathing Resort
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Bongkkeurang
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^^ We got burgers here before returning our rental vehicle and taking the ferry back to the main island.
Back to Jeju
Head to Hado Beach. If you’re wanting to try something adventurous or sporty near Hado beach, try:
Jeju Kayak Experience
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Further north, Woljeongri beach is beautiful. There are lots of cafes on the main drag, so if you’re looking to sit down, just pick one. We bought citrus makgeolli at the convenience store and drank it on the beach after a swim—it was one of the best makgeolli experiences I’ve had. (But that’s how we do things.)
Neoneun Paradise Gilli - wholesome café option further back from the main drag
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There are two more beach stops if you’re chilling out today or you can do some maze-and-cave exploration. Check out the options below.
If you aren’t beached out yet, another gorgeous beach to mission to is Gimnyeong.
Gimnyeong Bathing Resort
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And your final, best-for-last beach option is Hamdeok Beach.
Hamdeok Bathing Resort
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And while you’re here, head to the cutest, tasty bakery on this side of the island.
Daniswi
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If you’ve got sand in more places than you can count and need something else to do, check out Gimnyeong Maze Park and Majaangul Cave (on the same road). They’re fun-for-the-whole-family activities and can even be done in the rain. (Well, I did them in the rain).
Jeju Gimnyeong Maze Park
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Now that you’re completely tuckered out and are contemplating another vacation after this vacation, let’s check-in at the hotel and get dinner in Jeju City.
After check-in, you can walk to Dongmun night market – vibe, souvenirs, and dinner. It closes at 9 p.m. Try to get there early in the evening; lines snake around the building closer to closing. We were thoroughly entertained (and fed) and deem this a repeat-visit spot.
Dongmun Traditional Market
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Accommodation recommendation
Stay at the Ramada Plaza Jeju—of the two locations, it’s the hotel on the water. All the cool things are nearby and can be reached on foot.
Ramada Plaza Jeju
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Option C
If you’re here to hike Korea’s highest mountain, here’s what the day looks like for you:
Take a taxi from outside the hotel. The front desk will call one for you if there isn’t one waiting. If you didn’t get snacks from the night market, there’s a convenience store at the hotel entrance to stock up on snacks and water.
HIKING HALLASAN
You need to make a reservation to hike Hallasan.
To make a reservation follow this link or call this number: 064-713-9952. Once the reservation is made, a QR code will be sent to your phone—take a screenshot of it. You will enter the gates at the trailheads using the QR code.
While there are multiple trails on Hallasan, only two trails get you to the summit: Seongpanak (성판악) and Gwaneumsa (관음사).
· Seongpanak – Dongneung Peak: 9.7km, 3 – 4.5 hours one way
· Gwaneumsa – Dongneung Peak: 8.7km, 4 – 5 hours one way
Seongpanak is the longest of the two at 9.7km, but it is also the gentlest trail, making it the easier and quicker of the two going either way. It is also the busiest and best served by public transport.
Gwaneumsa is shorter and steeper, often closed due to rock falls, but much more scenic and well worth making the effort to get there.
*To check on whether the Gwaneumsa trail is open, check this website, or call the travel hotline on 1330. Otherwise, ask your hotel or guesthouse staff to call the Hallasan National Park Office, or speak to fellow travelers.
Site reference: https://www.goingthewholehogg.com/hiking-hallasan/
When we hiked Hallasan, we climbed up Gwaneumsa (steeper, scenic) and came down Seongpanak (gentler, longer) – it was the right decision.
We started hiking just before 8:00 am—plenty of time to spend at the top, appreciate the trail, and stop to take pictures.
Getting to and from the trailhead
We took a cab to the trailhead and it was honestly the best decision, quick and inexpensive. The bus was complicated and infrequent. We took the bus back as the Seongpanak trail had frequent buses just beyond the parking lot and we were in a hurry to get back to the city.
Packing tips:
It’s cooler at the top. In spring, we hiked in tees and tank tops but wore a puffy jacket at the top. In summer, I’d bring a rain jacket. There is a rest stop on each trail before the summit so that you can use the restroom. Bring enough water and food/snacks to eat at the top. Bring a mask for public transport. And bug spray—must have!
We took around 6 hours to hike because we had a list of things we wanted to get done in the city afterward. I’d recommend starting before 8 a.m. and setting aside 8-9 hours to get to the mountain, hike without a rush, and get home. That way you’ll still have time to relax and have dinner before bed.
Post-hike dinner
If you booked accommodation at the Ramada, take a shower, have a post-hike cocktail at the hotel bar near the lobby—you can see the ocean and watch planes landing—and head over to Magpie Brewing for pizza and local beer on tap. It’s walkable from the hotel, even after hiking Hallasan. There was night music along the water’s edge as we walked back and we even popped into a café called Better Flat for a cookie.
DAY 4
Morning Island Walk to Coffee | Check out | Early Flight Home
Wake early, go for a final walkabout, and grab yourself some coffee before taking a taxi to the airport.
We loved Better Flat coffee shop, which opens at 8 a.m.
Better Flat
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Starbucks Jeju Chilseong Branch
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^^ If you’re a Starbies fan, get your coffee to go, check out of the hotel, head to the airport, and recycle your cup in the handy cash-back Starbucks machine by the check-in desk.
That’s what I’ve got on Jeju, I hope it helps, and you have a blast on Korea’s largest island!
Much love,