Images by Samantha Robb
I remember looking up to guys I knew who were adventurers. You know, those types who were always involved in outrageous activities - from water sports and wake-boarding, rock-climbing and trail riding, surfing, hiking and marathon running. They always seemed to be planning a trip with ‘the boys’. They were the like-minded, skilled, semi-crazy types. I envied them. How I longed to be an adrenalin junkie: skilled and fearless. I wanted in.
I lost sight of that in school, deemed it unreachable, as the studies loomed. After school, I saw my window and began to travel. I fueled desires to explore the outdoors. I managed to fall in love with nature in a such a way that my life was altering dramatically.
I’m told by friends that new people and the wild excite me and I run to it. I don’t, I can’t lag behind. This weekend was one of those ‘new people and the wild’ type experiences.
This is how it began: eight, over-excited, well-prepared, buzzing kiddos arrived on a sunny Saturday at Highmoor Nature Reserve. Highmoor, centrally located in the Berg, is situated in the Maloti-Drakensberg Park and is one of four Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Nature Reserves, in addition to Vergelegen, Lotheni and Kamberg.
We were kitted out with food, clothing for all weather (rain was forecast) and headlamps with yoga mats and sleeping bags strapped to our bulky rucksacks. A last minute, make-shift corkscrew allowed us to decant wine into my metal ‘water’ bottle, much to the amusement of most of the group (hiking with glass is not recommended, in my opinion).
Off we went, jovially brushing along the trail through the grass for the next 5km. As expected, the group quickly split into pairs and threes.
What I love about hiking, besides the obviously beautiful scenery and mental challenges to overcome, is the conversation when group-traveling. Five of eight people were new to me and over the two days in the reserve I managed to have such rich conversations with each, getting to know them slightly better and became exposed to various experiences and shared viewpoints. I love that.
Well, we arrived, sweaty, exhausted humans and a twisted ankle later, to our ‘room’ for the night. We were sleeping in a cave, Aasvoëlkrans Cave (secret childhood dream realized). Outwardly silent, inwardly triumphing air pump. This is one of the two caves at Highmoor, the other is Caracal.
We we alive- already submerged in the pool below the cave, a waterfall gushing into it. It was shallow and refreshing. We clambered beneath the waterfall, water flowing onto our heads- what a feeling!
We weren’t seated for five minutes when the travel bug was biting. There were mountains and surrounds to explore. Six of us were off, shoes retied and water in hand. It was hot. We wandered far and found ourselves on the mountaintops. The panoramic view was spectacular- hills, green and grassy, rocky outcrops and a descending valley. We saw Eland on the hills and hawks overhead. The hills were alive (Sound of music soundtrack commence).
Then we heard it- that all too familiar South African roar. No, not a lion. Our eyes darted to the adjacent mountains and the blanket of hovering clouds was dark. Streaks of lighting and roaring thunder. A storm wasn't brewing, it was moving (soon to be in our direction).
Our initial thought was to run for it to try and find shelter (but where?). Then, a crazy (possibly idiotic, but thrilling) thought emerged- I wonder what it feels like to have a thunderstorm pass over you. Well, there’s no guess what happened next.
Do not try this at home
I can imagine the eyes of God watching us, six little specs sitting on a hilltop awaiting the forces of nature. We were imagining heavy rain and laughter-soaked faces.
Within minutes, the wind found us. A howling, gale-force, tearing-up-the-slopes wind. If we weren't sitting, we would have blown over the other side. Then the rain came, from the side. It was piercing and stinging all exposed skin. It felt as though hail was coming. We made a dash for it but the wind kept blowing the girls off the path closer to the edge of the mountain and our legs were burning from the lashings of rain. We crouched down in an attempt to cover our legs and shortly after the team reunited to make a crouched chain to stop the rain from getting at us.
Minutes later, all was still. The sun peeped out as the storm had blown over. It was calm and we were wide-eyed. What a story this would be! We made our way back, chatting all the while, distracted only by a troop of baboons (whose cave we were likely invading).
Cave life
“What happens in the cave stays in the cave.”
Food and drink is generally communal. Well, it’s not, but you all share anyway (esp coffee).
Needing to use the toilet, changing clothes, or privacy of any kind is inconvenient and/or unlikely.
An alternate to hiking shoes (flip flops) and extra dry socks is very agreeable.
You will be dirty, swim in the waterfall, and get dirty again. You will thank the heavens for wet wipes.
Whiskey before bedtime produces the weirdest stories and echoing giggles.
Yoga mats make terrible mattresses.
Nights are freezing. Lie like sardines in a tin and huddle. That won’t help but you’ll think it does.
Every one will sleep, poorly, and then talk about it all morning.
You’ll love it, all of it (including the disagreeable parts) and want to do it again because it allows you to be unapologetically yourself (even when your next sleep in a real bed reminds you why you live in a home and not a cave).
Details //
What to pack
Waterproof clothes and shoes for Spring/Summer in SA; hot weather dry-fit type clothing; extra socks incase it rains; flip flops or slip ons for the cave; bathing suit for the waterfall and pool; towel; a yoga mat/air mattress and sleeping bag; headlamp; wet wipes and hand sanitizer; plastic bags for dirty clothes/litter.
The cave is self-catering ;) so pack your own food (no dairy or items needing refrigeration).
Expenses
R60 entrance gets you in for the night in the cave. Day hikes are also encouraged. Camping at a camp site is also an option. Phone and book in advance on 033 845 1000.
Highmoor Nature Reserve can be contacted on 033 267 7240 for weather/general inquiries.
Cheers to the late-bloomers, redefined adventurers, those who dare to commit to the uncomfortable. We met, hiked, laughed and lived through a passing thunderstorm surrounded by the raw beauty in the Berg, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. You can too!
Love, Kate x