The rugged footpaths and pastel-colored houses peppered along the western coastline of the Italian Riveria have become a must-see destination for tourists and frequented by Italians alike.
Cinque Terre or the ‘Five Lands’ refers to the fishing village clusters along the coast in the Liguria Region of Italy, namely: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. These picturesque homes and hillsides are part of the Cinque Terre National Park and since 1997 have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Either on foot or using the coastal railway, that transports the masses in a matter of minutes to each village, Cinque Terre boasts some of the most beautiful coastal scenery in the world and must be scheduled into your stay.
I would recommend traveling further west by train to a the city, Levanto, to stay the night for more affordable accommodation option and a glorious, uncrowded beach experience. For the avid hikers amongst us, this undiscovered gem of a beach and quieter resting location is also a perfect, yet further, start to the trails and recovery spot.
On foot
Without detours, starting in the west at Monterosso walking east to Riomaggiore, time taken to complete this hike would have been roughly 5.5hours following the popular, coastal blue trail in the past.
However, in recent years, devastating flash floods and resulting landslides have caused destruction to two parts of this trail. Thus, the red detour trail (higher altitude and more challenging) must be taken in part if your desire is to complete it on foot, adding on two hours to the trek.
By rail
For the not-so-keen hikers, a train ticket can be purchased for 4 Euro one way but once you hop off at one of the stops you are expected to buy another otherwise you will be heavily fined. All tickets must be validated (stamped) in the machines adjacent to the tracks just before embarking on your journey. The train arrives frequently throughout the day, reaching each stop within minutes, making Cinque Terre an easily accessible, fantastic day outing for families.
A hiker's trail guide
Locals will recommend you do this trail over two days. Some say it’s possible in a day if you start from Monterosso hiking east and catch the train at the last stop.
I did this hike in one day from one stop further than the famous Cinque Terre coastal hike (starting in Levanto as I had spent the night there). I did it in summer. For those who have a choice, Spring and Autumn are preferable. If not, I have included advice and tips for hiking in summer below.
Why I recommend Levanto
Levanto to Monterosso was my favourite leg of the trip and because I started early when all was still, it was uncrowded and peaceful. The air was cool and the views enchanting.
Time expectation
Here are the times it took me to hike each leg. I was walking at a pretty average speed, but wasn't dawdling. I did stop to take pictures and to appreciate each spot with something to eat or drink.
If you don't plan on starting in Levanto, plan to hike for around 7.5 hours. If you need a break, rest in each city. If you need an escape from the sun and your feet hurt, you have the option to buy a train ticket and hop on at any point.
Tips for hiking in summer
Take a day pack
Stay hydrated—bottles of water and an energy drink are essential. You can purchase them in the towns but queues in stores are endless and prices are higher (buy prior to trip)
Wear a cap or sunhat
Bathe in sunscreen
Dress according—it is a stair-climbing hike not a walk, be prepared (no to the sandals)
Pack a camera/phone for taking those holiday pictures
Pack a bathing suit in your day pack - the cities are coastal and there are beautiful cooling off spots to dip and dive into
Take heed of the last two legs of the journey, there are detours (don't walk all the way down the stairs to the railway station looking for the route, you will have to ascend them all again unnecessarily—learn from my experience).
Visual account of the Cinque Terre trails
After a long day of stair conquering, I returned to Levanto by train and melted into the sand with drinks and snacks to enjoy the sun setting in all her glory.
Other activities around Cinque Terre
- Kayaking
- Stand Up Paddle Boarding
- Sailing
- Lounging on a rented chair with umbrella
The following day, I witnessed many families on small boats and 4-seater paddle boats, but chose to explore the ocean blue solo.
